Hearty Escarole, Barley, and Parmesan Soup Recipe (2024)

Why It Works

  • Sautéing the escarole along with the other aromatics tames its bitterness.
  • Barley adds heartiness, making this an ideal entrée soup.
  • Tomato paste, soy sauce, parmesan, and optional fish sauce add layers of savoriness.
  • A finishing drizzle of good olive oil adds richness.

Several years ago, I co-hosted an event at the New York Wine & Food Festival in which a few of our favorite chefs cooked their favorite soups. My favorite of the bunch: Marco Canora's escarole soup.

His version had these terrific little chicken dumplings, but seeing as I have a wife who leans vegetarian and I myself tend not to eat much meat in my off-duty hours, I wanted to convert this great concept into a more veg-friendly version.

Building the Foundation

It starts off pretty similarly to the meaty version, with a sauté of mirepoix—diced onions, celery, and carrots.

Hearty Escarole, Barley, and Parmesan Soup Recipe (1)

Once they're sweated out, I add garlic and rosemary. The latter is a key ingredients for many of the vegetarian soups I make. Added raw at the end of a dish, it can have an overpowering flavor, but cooked down from the start, it mellows, adding a savoriness that permeates the entire dish.

Hearty Escarole, Barley, and Parmesan Soup Recipe (2)

Braised greens are a non-intuitive but fantastic alternative to meat in many of myvegan recipes. The idea first struck me when I tasted the braised greens and shallot sandwich at my friend Charles Kelsey's Boston sandwich shop Cutty's. I made my own version withbraised kalelast year. It's juicy, savory, and intensely satisfying.

In soup, greens work just as well. To maximize their flavor extraction, it's best to sauté them along with the rest of the vegetables. Here I'm using escarole, which has a very mild bitterness that mellows with sautéing, while at the same time intensifying its natural sweetness.

Adding a Depth of Flavor

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Tomato paste, packed with glutamatic acid adds both savoriness and a bit of body to the finished soup. I sauté it until all the vegetables are coated and they start to sizzle, indicating that most of the excess moisture in the pot has evaporated. My version isn't going to have chicken dumplings, but pearled barley adds the requisite heartiness to turn this soup into a main course.

With the veg sautéed, the rest is all about simmering. Chef Canora uses an incredible broth made at his restaurant with whole turkeys, chickens, and beef bones simmered all day in giant pots. I have neither the inclination nor the wallet to use whole birds just for the sake of stock, but Idomake chicken stock at home using trimmings from birds whenever I collect enough of them.

In fact, you can even use store-bought chicken or vegetable broth for this soup because we've got a secret trick to bump up the flavor: a couple of bay leaves and a hunk of Parmesan rind (actually Grana Padano rind in this case). More importantly, the proteins extracted from the cheese help emulsify the soup so that rather than having a slick of olive oil on the surface, it gets evenly incorporated into the broth.

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The last trick? A couple of extra umami bombs: a dash of soy sauce and, if you're not going strictly vegetarian, fish sauce as well, which contains inosinic acid, another compound that works in conjunction with glutamic acid to trigger your sense of savoriness.

Served with a drizzle of really good extra virgin olive oil (my current favorite isthe awesome Arbequina oil from Séka Hills) and a grating of cheese and you've got a fall soup so comforting and filling that you'll never question its meatless status.

Perhaps Chef Canora will have something to say about my bastardization of his beloved soup, but even if he puts me out, I'll take it, knowing I've got a big ol' bowl of comfort waiting for me at home.

November 2013

Recipe Details

Hearty Escarole, Barley, and Parmesan Soup Recipe

Cook50 mins

Active20 mins

Total50 mins

Ingredients

  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving

  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)

  • 1 large carrot, finely diced (about 1 cup)

  • 2 medium stalks celery, finely diced (about 1 cup)

  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves

  • 3 medium cloves garlic, minced (about 1 tablespoon)

  • 1 large head escarole, chopped into 1-inch pieces

  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste

  • 1/2 cup pearled barley

  • 1 1/2 quarts low-sodium store-bought or homemade vegetable or chicken stock

  • 2 bay leaves

  • 4-inch chunk Parmesan rind

  • 2 teaspoons soy sauce

  • 1 teaspoon fish sauce(optional)

  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves

  • Parmesan cheese, for serving

Directions

  1. Heat olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onions, carrots, and celery. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, about 4 minutes. Add rosemary and garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add escarole and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted, about 5 minutes. Add tomato paste and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until liquid has evaporated and mixture begins to sizzle, about 5 minutes longer. Add barley and cook, stirring, until coated with oil, about 1 minute.

    Hearty Escarole, Barley, and Parmesan Soup Recipe (5)

  2. Stir in broth. Add bay leaves, parmesan rind, soy sauce, and fish sauce (if using), and bring to a boil. Reduce to a bare simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until barley is softened and soup has absorbed flavor from parmesan and bay leaves, about 25 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in parsley. Serve, drizzling with olive oil and sprinkling with parmesan.

    Hearty Escarole, Barley, and Parmesan Soup Recipe (6)

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Hearty Escarole, Barley, and Parmesan Soup Recipe (2024)

FAQs

What is the secret ingredient in soup? ›

It may sound a bit strange and unusual for some, but vinegar is a common ingredient in some soup recipes, and there is a good reason for it. If you think about it, vinegar is really a flavor-enhancer (umami). That's why it is so often used in cooking, sauces, and salad dressings. The same is true with soups.

What if I put too much barley in my soup? ›

As barley is a starch the best you can do is dilute it, or thin it out a bit. You may need to add a fair bit of broth and more of your vegetal ingredients. Possibly to the point of doubling your recipe. It will depend on when you find the taste and texture to have gotten back to acceptable levels.

What does Parmesan rind do to soup? ›

Parmesan rind is a protective layer that forms on the cheese as it ages. While it's safe to eat, its commonly discarded because it's hard and difficult to chew. That doesn't mean it isn't full of flavor though! The rinds can be simmered in sauces, soups, and broths, imparting its flavor as it slowly breaks down.

What is escarole called in a grocery store? ›

Escarole, or broad-leaved endive (var latifolia) has broad, pale green leaves and is less bitter than the other varieties. Varieties or names include broad-leaved endive, Bavarian endive, Batavian endive, grumolo, scarola, and scarole.

What does apple cider vinegar do in soup? ›

Is your homemade soup missing something? Add a splash or two of ACV when the soup is done cooking. The vinegar helps lift and highlight flavors. Pickle with ACV.

What gives soup the best flavor? ›

Foods that have a great deal of acidity, like lemon juice, vinegar, white wine, and tomato puree, can help liven up the flavor of bland-tasting bone and other broths. "The acidity of these ingredients works to complement and enhance the broth's flavors, not mask it.

Should I cook barley before adding it to soup? ›

Do you cook barley before adding it to soup? Your beef barley soup will simmer long enough to cook the barley. There is no need for the additional step of cooking the barley first. The barley takes about 30 minutes to cook completely.

Is barley soup anti inflammatory? ›

Research shows that barley helps to regulate blood pressure, boost immunity and provide anti-inflammatory effects.

What happens if you don't rinse barley? ›

Barley does not need to be soaked before cooking, however, it is a good idea to rinse the grains. This removes any dirt or extra starch that is on the grain.

How to add parmesan to soup? ›

Simply drop a Parmesan rind or two into a pot of simmering soup, Bolognese, tomato sauce, risotto, or beans. You can also make Parmesan broth, a satisfying vegetarian alternative to use in place of chicken or vegetable broth in recipes.

Does Parmesan cheese thicken soup? ›

First, a quick and easy way to thicken soup is to add cheese. While any cheese will work, you can also effortlessly upgrade your soup's flavor and thickness by adding a leftover frozen parmesan rind.

What do Italians do with Parmesan rind? ›

You'll never think twice about throwing them away again!
  1. Flavor your sauces and soups. Plop the rinds into your next tomato sauce, ragù, or soup and let it simmer. ...
  2. Make a flavorful Parmigiano Reggiano broth. Save up four to five rinds in the fridge. ...
  3. Add to risotto.

Why is escarole so expensive? ›

The chicory is often bunched and placed with heads of fresh lettuce, away from its close relatives radicchio and endive. It's more expensive than lettuce since it is considered a specialty item.

How to get the bitterness out of escarole? ›

How Do You Take the Bitterness Out of Escarole? While escarole isn't as inherently bitter as broccoli rabe or radicchio, it does have a mild bitterness to it. It's easy to tame, however, by cooking it in garlicky olive oil and offsetting the bitter with a splash of tangy lemon juice at the end.

What vegetable is most like escarole? ›

What can you swap in for it, if need be? Chicory of endives are your best bet, but if those aren't easily accessible—they're not always! —spinach and arugula are good bitter substitutes. Truly any dark leafy green'll do.

What is the most important ingredient in soup? ›

For clear, brothy soups, stock is your most important ingredient. If you want to make a good soup, you need to use an excellently flavored stock — otherwise, the entire pot could be tasteless.

What is the secret ingredient in secret ingredient soup? ›

Ping, about the secret ingredient in his famous secret ingredient soup. Mr. Ping : The secret ingredient is… nothing!

What gives vegetable soup that depth of flavor? ›

Dried herbs and seasonings: homemade seasoned salt, black pepper, Italian seasoning, and dried bay leaves lend flavor to the soup.

What does adding vinegar to soup do? ›

As well as adding flavor, vinegar can preserve food, improve the appearance of a dish, and even fill in for missing ingredients. For example, if you've run out of fresh lemon or lime, you can always use ½ teaspoon of vinegar in place of a teaspoon of citrus juice for that flavorsome tang!

References

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